Finding the Perfect Rod Part 2
After many emails, phone calls and private messages received over the past months asking me about when the next installment of “Finding the perfect rod” was going to be out, I decided to stop procrastinating and actually write it.
So here it is, the next overdue installment of finding the perfect rod:
All rods were not created equal, and it was for a reason. When a rod blank is made, it is designed for a specific purpose in mind. The way we can tell how one rod is different from another is by the combination of specifications with which the blank was designed. These specifications are varied and include characteristics like lure weight rating, line rating, action, power, modulus, etc. When picking out a rod it is important to know what the specifications are, what they mean, and which combination you should be looking for in your next rod. This is why this installment of finding the perfect rod will be focused on understanding rod specifications.
For years I thought action and power were the same. It wasn’t until after some research I found out that my “medium action” rod was not what I thought it was. In actuality, there is a big difference between action and power even though sometimes they are thought of as one.
The action of a rod determines what section of the rod flexes when it is under a load. A slow/moderate action blank will feel flimsy because the rod will flex near the butt section. Slow/moderate action rods are less accurate during casts, offer less control of the fish but will be more forgiving when fighting large fish. On the contrary, an extra-fast action blank will seem stiffer because the point where the rod flexes is near the tip of the blank; it will be more accurate when casting, will offer more control when fighting a fish, but will less forgiving to angler error when fighting a large fish. This is why when selecting a rod, you should pick the action depending on the application you plan on using it for.
This image shows a visual representation of action and is from the St. Croix Rods website:
The power rating indicates how much force is needed to flex the rod. The higher the power rating the stronger the blank and the more backbone it will have. I choose the power rating depending on two things: The amount of structure that I am fishing in and the weight of the lures I am throwing (even though I mostly base it on the cover I am in). If I am in heavy cover then I will choose a higher power rod than I would if I was in no cover.
Another thing to take into consideration is that it might take longer to harness the power of a rod depending on the rods action. You will not be able to use a rods power until the rod loads properly. For example:
A slow action rod will have to bend to the butt before there is any real stopping power. On the contrary, an extra fast action rod will give more immediate power because it will have to flex very little before it is in the power section of the rod. This is the reason why an angler has more control of a fish with faster action rods than with slower action rods.
Another element to take into consideration is the modulus of the graphite. Modulus is the resistance to bending of the graphite blank. For example, let’s compare two rods. These two rods are identical in power, action, line rating, and lure rating; the only thing different is that one rod is of a higher modulus than the other. The rod of the higher modulus graphite will feel slightly stiffer than its counterpart because it is made out of higher modulus graphite. So even though they have the same specifications, there will be a noticeable difference between how the two rods act and perform. Usually, the higher modulus blank will be more sensitive and lighter weight than a lower modulus blank, but it will be more brittle.
One thing to look out for is the blank composition. Usually the higher modulus rod blanks will have a high graphite composition and a low fiberglass composition. Be on the lookout for rods that claim to have a high modulus rating but feel heavy to the touch or very flimsy. Chances are manufacturers are misrepresenting the true composition of the blank. This is especially true of less expensive/ unknown rod manufacturers that boast a high modulus. Well known rod manufacturers will list the quality of the blank on their rod and will charge accordingly, for example:
St. Croix Rods rates their rods with a SC rating that ranges from SCII to SCVI. SCVI is the highest grade graphite they make and is very light and sensitive, but also very fragile. G. Loomis also does the same; they rate their rods accordingly: GL2, GL3, IMX, and GLX; with GLX being the highest quality grade blank they make. Both manufacturers will offer a model of a rod in different graphite blank grades.
The lure weight rating is probably one of the most overlooked aspects of a rod when it comes to buying a rod to salt water fisherman. Unfortunately, not taking it into consideration can be a costly mistake making the difference between effortless casting and casting as hard as you can to achieve the same results.
By matching the lure weight rating with the lure you plan on casting, you will make casting effortless. This is because rods are engineered to load with a certain amount of weight. If you pick a lure that is too light for your rod, you will be straining yourself to cast the lure. This would be much like casting with a broomstick because there is no help from the rod loading to give you the effortless extra yards.
On the contrary, if you pick a lure that is too heavy; then the rod will feel whippy at the end of the cast and you will have less control and accuracy when casting.
Line rating is pretty straight forward. That is the lb test line that the rod blank can handle under stress. Anything more and you run the risk of having your rod snap when under pressure.
Jigging
In the world of inshore fishing, generally soft plastic are used for jigging and throwing light weight/unweighted baits. These are the applications when I recommend buying the rod with the best blank you can afford. Reason being that the higher grade blanks will provide improved sensitivity that can make even the most subtle bite clear as day.
For a Jigging rod I look for a fast action blank with a medium or medium heavy power depending on the amount of cover that is being fished and the weight of the lure thrown.
Unweighted
For unweighted and light weight soft plastics I prefer an extra fast blank that is rated for light lures ( preferable with a rating starting as low as 1/8 or 3/16 oz). In terms of power, once again match it to the amount of structure.
Now in my opinion, I do not think there is anything more exciting than fishing top water lures. If you are a top water addict like me, you will find yourself “walking the dog” for hours. I have tried various different rods for topwater lures and finding one that I love was one of longest searches I have had.
When looking for a rod to work topwater lures, I prefer rods shorter than 7 feet. I find either a 6’6” or a 6’8” to be ideal. Reason being is that working a top water lure requires constant moving of the rod. The shorter rod is easier to manage and is less fatiguing. The downside is that casting distance is sacrificed, but I have found that the distance lost is negligible when compared to the added comfort from using a shorter rod to work a topwater all day. A key to minimizing your casting distance lost is making sure the rod lure weight rating matches the topwaters you intend to throw.
Another thing I look for in topwater lures is an extra fast action. It is important for the tip to be extra fast in order to have more control over the action that is given to the lure. Some people prefer fast rods and even popping for this application because they can “bounce” the tip to give action to the lure. It is simply preference, but I find extra fast actions to give me the most versatility and control over the lure.
Back in the day, people preferred popping rods for this application because they could “bounce” the tip and because they were much more forgiving than the traditional rod. With a slight movement they could keep the topwater walking effortlessly. With recent innovation in rod design and a movement by the new generation of anglers to use technique specific rods, manufacturers have developed a blank with an extra-fast tip that is parabolic providing anglers complete control of the action of the lure while still having the forgiveness that comes with a parabolic rod.
I hope this helps you guys in your rod search. Next will be a review of a couple of rods and some discussion on what to look for when searching for a rod for twitchbait applications.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Tampa Bay Watch Clean Up
It’s been a few weeks since I have managed to post anything. There does not seem to be enough time in a day to do everything I would like to accomplish. Recently, some of us got together to participate in the Ft. De Soto clean up conducted by the Tampa Bay Watch. I was very happy to have been able to participate and even though I had pulled a all nighter fishing, I was more than willing to do what I could to give back to an area that I enjoy so much.
I was self appointed camera man during the trip for the part on the water that Adrian could not cover because he did not bring his kayak. I promised to get the photos I took to him, and I figured better late than never. Here are a few of them, enjoy.


6/14/2009
Apology, Thanks and Report
I have wanted to apologize to the people that have taken their time to check my page on a regular basis. I have not been able to post on a regular basis due to lack of time. In 6 weeks I have been able to fish twice due to 11-13 hour days Monday-Friday at my internship and work, and 8 hour days Saturday and Sunday. Some of my responsibilities will be ending in a couple of weeks which will give me more time on the water and more time to write. I figured if you still take your time to check my page, I owed you an explanation and an apology. I also wanted to thank you all for continuing to check back, I assure you in the next 2-3 weeks the situation will change and I will be able to get you guys the info, reviews, and reports that you deserve.
Having said sorry and thanks, I wanted to share with you my recent days on the water. I ended up going out with Gary for some fishing. I just bought a new Tacoma and was excited to use it to transport my kayak. It made loading and unloading much less time demanding and easier, I don’t know how I went so long without a truck. The bad part about the day is that the weather did not cooperate and it was gusty and rainy. Gary ended up catching a bunch of trout and I caught a tinny redfish. We got tired of being in the gusty wind and rain so we called it a day. Of course as soon as we were done loading the kayaks up the rain cleared and the west winds stopped blowing. We didn’t get any great pictures, but I did get a few of my new truck.
About a week later I managed to get out on the water with Ryan (Redfisher). We had our hearts set on catching tarpon but because of the west winds decided to try our luck another day and do some inshore fishing. The day started out slow but as we waded the flat we came across and area holding fish. Ryan and I both hooked up almost simultaneously, both fish were nice snook and both fish ended up throwing shaking our topwater lures loose. Ryan was especially disappointed since his snook was probably in the upper 30” range.
A few casts later resulted in a few upper slot redfish, but after that the solunar had ended and with it, the bite also came to a crashing halt. A couple hours later we called it a day. The fish today were caught on spook Jr’s and zara puppies.
Thanks for reading, and keep it hard core
Paddle Picking Pointers
I remember when I bought my first kayak; I was amazed that it did not come with a paddle. I remember the awkward silence of standing there waiting for the kayak shop owner to attach a paddle to the boat, and he sat there with the same bewildered face waiting for me to take the boat after I told him I would buy it. After a few seconds I asked “does it come with a paddle?”… “No” he replied, and told me most kayaks do not come with paddles and most people end up picking as specific paddle depending on what their paddling style. Of course, at the time I thought a paddle was a paddle, and bought the cheapest one available at the shop. I didn’t know much about it at the time, but it turned out that every paddle isn’t for everyone.

After a few trips with some friends I realized how exhausting it was to paddle, so I did a little research and it turned out that I bought the opposite of the paddle I should have gotten. I am not trying to say that you should buy the most expensive one on the market; there are some high dollar paddles that would be terrible for a kayak fisherman. But there are a few characteristics of the paddle that you should look into before you buy one.
Weight:
I have owned everything from an
aluminum shaft paddle with plastic blades, carbon shaft with plastic blades,
full fiberglass, and now I have a full carbon paddle. The reason why I have
upgraded my paddle so much is simply because it makes a noticeable at the end
of the day. Then again, I usually paddle 7-12 miles a trip, but
regardless of the distances you paddle, it will notice a difference on the
water and when you get off the water.
Your paddle is the engine of your kayak, and the lighter the weight, the
more performance you will get.
An aluminum shaft plastic blade paddles are about 42-54
ounces. Carbon paddles and fiberglass paddles can range from 23-35
ounces. You might say what the big deal? 12-16 ounces difference
(2/3 lb- 1 lb) isn’t a big deal. But if you plan on paddling more than
3-4 miles it will add up.
A light paddle isn’t just for people that blow through nautical miles. It will be the determining factor whether you feel invigorated after your day on the water and ready to do other things with the rest of your day, or dragging yourself from your kayak to your car with your shoulders feeling like mush, and being done with everything for the day besides a nap.
Pat, the owner of Onno Paddles
put it this way:
“Please humor me. Yes you can buy a plastic paddle for 40.00 or
less. But. What if you could travel farther with less effort or paddle for even
an extra 15 minutes just because your paddle boosted your efforts? What is that
time worth to you? How about in your profession? The extra expense is made up
fast.
Real world #s: 1stroke = L-R-L
40oz. plastic Vs. 25oz. ONNO Signature =
15oz. x 20 strokes per minute = 300oz. x 60 min. = 18,000oz.
That's 1125 pounds per hour you are swinging around needlessly. Hey, you just
filled 22, fifty pound bags of sand with your hands on your leisure time. Or
1500 cokes”
It’s hard to argue with that, but same as with rods, you
have to put into account how much use you plan on getting out of your paddle
when you decide how much to pay for one.
Paddle Blade:
One thing to keep in mind before you buy is the shape of the blade that suits your style of paddling. I have heard people who tried a paddle that is nicer than theirs and not really liked it as much as their original paddle, but I am also willing to bet that the blade design of the paddle they tried is different from the one they are use to.
There is a lot to paddle blades,
but this is the basic idea:
The wider your paddle, the more "bite" it
will have. You will accelerate faster, and is better for people who make powerful
short strokes. Sounds great right! But the downfalls are that it is
harder to maintain your paddling speed and is more tiring after a day of paddling.
The narrower a paddle blade is, the less
"bite" it will have. This means that you will be less fatigued
maintaining your comfortable paddle speed. The downside is that it
will not accelerate as fast and it will require a few extra strokes to get to
this speed.
My advice for you is find the lightest paddle you
can afford with the blade that suits your paddling angle for the way you paddle
and the distance you cover, it will make a difference, after a few long trips
or trips in the wind you will be happy you did.

There are other elements that come into play: bent
shaft, straight shaft, symmetrical blades, asymmetrical blades, low angle/high
angle, and the list goes on. Do some reading about it before you decide
and make sure to try out your friends paddle when you get a chance. It is always good to swap paddles for an hour
or so because you never know what works for you until you try it out.
Be easy, and keep it hardcore,
Jose Chavez
The two things I am excited about now is just having bought two new kayaks. The first one I bought is an Emotion Grand Slam to replace the Heritage Redfish 14 I previously had.

I am very excited about this new boat; it has exceeded my expectations of it. So far I have noticed that it is much faster than the Redfish 14 and is less affected by the wind. Also I am very happy with the layout of the boat and how comfortable it is to fish in it during extended periods of time. It is also very quiet, making no hull slap like the Redfish.
Another thing I was absolutely amazed with is how well the water drains out of the boat. I thought the Redfish 14 was a dry ride, but the Grand Slam has redefined dry kayak for me. The water effortlessly drains out of the scuppers and does not make a little puddle in the cockpit like the Redfish 14 did. Another plus of this is that my reels will need less maintenance because when I have a rod sitting in front of me, the body of the reel will not be sitting in a little puddle.
The only thing about it that I am disappointed about is that the factory rudder is the crack of dawn rudder, which is an economy rudder. It’s great for the price, I had one on my Redfish 14 and it got the job done but I was looking for something a little sturdier and more refined, so I opted not to get it and buy a Ocean Kayak Big rudder instead. The install for the rudder turned out to be a pain since the bracket could not be modified to make it fit and I had to recruit the help of a master craftsman (Ryan aka Redfisher) to make me a custom mount in order to get it to work.
The only other downside I have found with the boat is that water seems to get in through the center hatch in the cockpit into the inside of the boat. It’s really not a problem in calm weather, but if in rough weather or heavy rain during extended periods of time, it might become a problem. Ryan had owned a Grand Slam before me and he suggested a solution that worked out well. It was to use neoprene tape and silicone caulk to seal the hatch. I will post picture of this soon.
I have only been able to take the
boat out on a couple of trips, so I will write a more detailed review about it
in the future.
Photo by Adrian Correa
The second boat the cat drug in is a 2009 tarpon 160. This boat has been redone for 2009, and to be honest, I was a little skeptical about buying it and getting rid of my tarpon 160i. The reason I was skeptical about it is because from looking at the new hull, it appears to be possible that this boat will not be as fast and will be more affected by the wind than its predecessor. The reason I had a tarpon to start out with is because I needed a long trip/ windy day boat, and the 160i fit this bill perfectly.
The only downside to the 160i was that after long days it turned out to not be the most comfortable boat to be in. Even though the new Tarpon 160 might not be as fast, it is supposed to be much more comfortable and I can already tell that the deck layout of the boat is much more user friendly. These observations have been made without having paddled the boat yet. I plan on taking it out next week to see how it does, expect a more in detail review of the boat soon.

Blue 2008 Tarpon 160i pictured left and tan 2009 Tarpon 160 pictured right.
April 10, 2009
Finding the Perfect
Rod
By Jose Chavez
A question that I commonly see asked is “how to pick the perfect Rod?” I once asked myself the same question, and left my house determined to find that perfect rod. After hours in the tackle shop I found myself unsure of what I wanted since there seemed to be a limitless number of choices. I got tired of being there and made a decision. What I thought would be a great rod for a certain application,turned out to be mediocre, and I was still determined to buy something better.
After years of fishing and buying dozens or rods I found out that picking the “perfect rod” does not have to be a frustrating ordeal. It can be much simpler if you ask yourself the right questions.
How often do you
fish?
Do you fish a few times a year, a couple times a month, are you a dedicated weekend warrior or are you a serious tournament fisherman? How frequently you fish should be the first thing you should consider. Why? Because how often you fish will have a direct impact on how much you should budget toward a rod. It would be silly to spend hundreds of dollars on your rod if you are only going to use it a couple of times a year. Then again, if you fish multiple times a month and spend extended periods of time on the water, then you might want to look into mid to high end rods, since they will be lighter and more sensitive, making your time on the water less taxing and more enjoyable.
Where do you fish and
what do you target?
Where you and what you fish for will greatly affect what rod you chose. Do you fish the flats and backwaters, do you fish docks and bridge pilings, do you fish the intercoastal or do you fish offshore? These are all questions to consider carefully because they each call for rods with very different characteristics, and most of the times when a rod is designed, it is designed with a certain application or niche in mind. Often times it is difficult for a rod to function well outside of its intended use.
In flats and backcountry fishing, finesse and stealth will often make the difference between tricking the spooky reds and suspicious snook, or just catching a couple of trout. In this scenario you will be throwing lighter lines to be less noticeable and increase your casting distance in order to have a greater chance of fooling highly pressure fish. Also, there is not much structure for that fish to break you off so you can get away with lighter tackle. In contrast, if you throw a broomstick all day on the flats, you will find yourself getting more fatigued after a day on the water and not enjoying the fight when you winch in that 26 inch trout, slot red, or snook.
Structure oriented fishing and fishing the intercoastal require a whole different approach. In fishing structure like docks, often time you want a stouter rod which will give you a greater chance of turning that monster from his desperate sprint to a piling. There are finesse approaches to structure fishing that we will discuss in a later time, but these will not work in every application in which case a shoulder to shoulder battle is your only option. Similarly, on the intercoastal you will occasionally encounter larger game fish like cobia and tarpon for which you will need a stouter rod to have a fighting chance.
Rod specs and
techniques?
Another area that is frequently overlooked is the specs of the rod needed and the intended technique you plan on using the rod for. I have seen countless times people using a rod that is rated for 12 pound line spooled with 20 lb mono and they wonder why they can’t cast very far or why their rod broke. Also, I have seen people throwing a 1/8th once jig on a rod that is rated for 1/4th to 5/8th or a 1oz plug on that same rod. In these situations people often think “I don’t like this rod” or “this rod stinks” but really, there is nothing wrong with the rod, the problem is that it is being used incorrectly. It’s like trying to hit a bowling ball with a golf club and wondering why it didn’t go very far. It is amazing how much better you will like a rod if you get match the blank to the rest of the equipment you are using.
So what is next?
Now that you have thought
about these questions you are ready for the next step which is going to the
store and picking up the rod. Before you
do, there is still one more important thing to consider: “What action and power
rating should I be looking for?” All
rods are not created equal, and it was done for a reason. There is a right combination in action and
power that will make a rod shine at the application you are using it for. I will be discussing this on part two of Finding
the Perfect Rod.
In part two, I will explain the difference between the action of a rod and its power rating, discuss what combination of action and power works best for certain techniques, and give you examples of good rods for different techniques.
Hope this gives you some insight on your search for the perfect rod and come back next week to the next installment of Gear-N-Reports.






